GUINNESS - It's Just Better in Ireland

Monique, Rick and I in Dublin, Ireland, enjoying a pint (after 15 hours of traveling).
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Caveat:  I'm not a beer drinker. I'm not a connoisseur who will tell you about the nuances of micro-brewed IPAs made from cornhusks and blueberry stems. It's not my thing. But I will tell you:  Guinness in Ireland is awesome.

A lovely pint at Gibney's in Malahide.
Eat the Fish & Chips.

Starting in Dublin and Malahide (just outside of Dublin), and moving on through Kilmore, Kilkenny, the Hook Peninsula, Our Lady's Island, New Ross, Wexford, Waterford, Dunmore East (just to name a few), I've discovered one thing:  I like Guinness. A lot. But only in Ireland. (I can hear myself say this aloud, and it makes me cringe a little).

I don't know what it is exactly because I've had it back in the States and I didn't like it. Is it the creaminess? The lack of a bitter aftertaste? The heaviness? The way it's poured? Transported? All of the above? I can't answer these questions, but apparently I'm not the only one who likes it better here.
Scientists at the Institute of Food Technologists completed a study that found the majority of drinkers liked Guinness better in Ireland than in any other country.

I do know one thing:  I like Guinness. A lot. But only in Ireland.

New in Cuba - April 2016

New in Cuba

April 2016 - The Plaza del Carmen in Camaguey, Cuba and the famous Norberto. 

You can see both him and his statue in the park daily. 

Everyone I meet who finds out that I guide tours in Cuba always asks me, "What are the new changes in Cuba since we've normalized relations?" My answer, "Not much." That's because we haven't normalized relations; we are attempting to normalize them. Big difference. 

"Oh, but now that things have changed, I can legally travel to Cuba." No. Wrong. If you couldn't legally travel to Cuba before, you still can't. The embargo is still in place, and tourism for American citizens is still illegal. What did change was that the people who could travel legally before have to do less paperwork now. You, as an America, cannot just go to Cuba. There are exceptions to this, such as people-to-people tours. You know...like the tours we do at Knowing The Way Travel :)

I just got back from Cuba with an amazing group of people - we went from Havana to Camaguey, with stops in between to places such as Remedios, Santa Clara and the Che Memorial, and Playa Bonita. 

So...what's was going on in Cuba?

Everyone was talking about Rápido y Furioso (The Fast and the Furious 8) which was filming around la Habana. Here is a sample of that conversation:

"Did you know that the Fast and the Furious was filming in Cuba?" asked every Cuban I know or met.

"Yes."

"Yes, with the big one. He's here," they said.

"You mean, 'The Rock?'"

"Sí, sí, da' Rock," they responded.

For someone from San Francisco, a place where films and tv programs are shot all the time, the filming was just an inconvenience that caused traffic jams, but the Cubans were very excited to have the filming take place there.

There was a lot of talk about how many foreigners were now visiting Cuba, and hope about what changes will come with the increase in tourism, new government policies and when the embargo ends. I would describe it, not as change, but as waiting for change to happen.

Argentina & Uruguay 2016

The military coup against the Argentine people on March 24, 1976 launched the Dirty War leading to the death and disappearance of tens of thousands of the nation's populace.  Another facet of the coup was the stealing of babies from their mothers - sometimes killing the mothers - and sending them out for adoption.  The Mothers campaign raised the world's attention to this reprehensible facet of the Dirty War and indirectly the war against the people itself.  our trip to Buenos Aires took us there at the time of the commemoration of that sad chapter in the nation's history.  March 24, 2016 was the 40th anniversary of the coup.

We arrived several days in advance of the rallies that brought - perhaps - a million people out into the streets.  Our activities had included a talk with the journalist and professor Sergio Ciancaglini, who covered the trials against the generals responsible for the Dirty War.  Sergio provided a sweeping view of the nation's history and the recent chapters in Argentina's story.  We also met one day with economist Alan Cibilis, who shared an update on the nation's state of affairs. Interesting President Obama was in BA for a meeting with the new president Mauricio Mecri. The presidents left the city for a golf date on March 24th.

As we walked among-st the crowds, we enjoyed the camaraderie and noticed the many families that came out with their children.  It was a peaceful affair.  We observed organized groups come from throughout the city into the Plaza de Mayo.  That evening the jubilant crowds continued marching in the streets.  There were no acts of violence or disturbance that day.  It will a demonstration of a people dedicated to NUNCA MAS. 

Parque la Memoria is dedicated to those who lost their lives during the military rule.  We visited the park and walked amid a vast array of warning signs depicted the horrors of dictatorship and its consequences.  Our leader, Delia Marx, lost a family member.  Many Argentines lost loved ones.  Our day took us to the notorious EX ESMA museum that is dedicated to remembrance.  The Dirty War is Argentina's holocaust of recent times and there are many facets of this ugly period. 

Our trip to BA explored a vibrant city of culture with its museums, markets, barrios and array of sites and sounds.  We enjoyed tango, visited a cooperative, a foster home and walked the many neighborhoods of the city.  Our journey took us up the Parana River to the Ibera Wetlands (an amazing oasis, isolated and rife with flora and fauna), the Jesuit Misiones, an amethyst mine and the incomparable Iguacu Falls.  Our journey was over the course of five days by bus, four wheeler, vans and our return via air to BA.  A short ferry ride took us the Colonia and Montevideo in Uruguay.

While many travel to Argentina to see the beauty of Patagonia and the vast coastal stretches reaching towards the end of the continent, our journey was immensely different.  We experienced the La Plata region unlike any other.  Then again, we are life long learners, travelers seeking to appreciate a world of diversity.

Spanish Tortilla, (Monique-style!)

We are getting ready for another exciting adventure in Spain walking the Camino.  This year we will be visiting Barcelona (the Catalan Way), Zaragosa, Bilbao (the Northern Way), Oviedo, Lugo (the Primitive Way) and then we begin our journey on the French Way into Santiago.  We will walk four different ways on this trip.  We are looking forward to this great opportunity and once again enjoying all the beauty that Spain has to offer along the way.  One of the best ways to enjoy Spain is through their food:  tortillas, paellas, tapas, flans, tinto de verano, etc., etc.  Since I love to cook, I am always experimenting with new ingredients to an old recipe.  Below is my recipe for tortilla using yams instead of potatoes.  Enjoy!!  Buen Camino!

Spanish Tortilla with a twist

3-4 large yams, peeled
1-2 onions, slices
6 slices thick bacon
5-6 large eggs
salt and pepper
olive oil

Cut the peeled yams in half lengthwise.  Lay the flat side down and slice the yam thinly.  Make sure to separate the pieces that stick together.  It is not necessary to slice paper thin, and it is best not to use a food processor for this task.  Place in a bowl.

Slice the onions in half moons.  Add to the yams and toss with salt and pepper.

Fry up the bacon to render the fat and semi-cook the bacon.  Drain off the fat, wipe the skillet clean and pour in olive oil to cover the bottom of the skillet. Break the bacon up into small pieces and toss with the yam and onion mixture.

Heat the oil and gently place the yam/onion mixture into the skillet, spreading evenly over the entire skillet.  Turn down the heat so the mixture does not burn.

Leave in the pan until the yams are cooked.  Poke with a spatula and if they break apart, they are finished.

Drain the mixture in a colander over a bowl to catch the olive oil drippings.  In another bowl mix the eggs.  Once the yams have drained, add them to the egg mixture and toss gently.

Reheat the olive oil from the drained mixture and add the yam/onion/bacon/egg mixture to the skillet.  Spread out evenly and allow the egg mixture to cook around the edges.  Once this is done, place a large platter over the skillet and very carefully flip the skillet over and the tortilla will fall out.  It will still be runny inside, but the bottom and edges should be solid.  Add more olive oil to the skillet and gently slide the tortilla back into the skillet to finish the cooking on the other side.  

Once cooked through, remove from heat and slide the tortilla onto another clean platter.  Allow to rest and serve room temperature with garlic mayo.  To make the garlic mayo, roast a head of garlic, wrapped in foil, in the oven until soft, squeeze the cloves into a bowl, mash well and add your favorite mayo to the mixture.